Shilli-Fully Travels

We debated driving ourselves to Cappadocia. However it is 10 hours from Kalkan, either via Konya or via Antalya and we could not hire a suitable car in Kalkan (which serves a local “run-around” demand). While it is possible to fly, it is no quicker as a transfer in Istanbul is needed and we felt we would miss out on some of the experiences of travelling across Turkey. We therefore organised a driver, through our agent, Murat (introduced by our great friend and neighbour İpek). Murat told us that our driver was Gökhan and he speaks a bit of English, although we soon discovered that he speaks very good English; better than our Turkish.

Gökhan was a star of the trip, acting as much more than a (very professional) driver – a guide, porter, Turkish teacher, comedian and expert in local cuisine. He taught us a few new phrases; with our favourite being “Hadi gidelim”, a polite way of saying “let’s go”).

Gökhan, a Central Anatolian from Cappadocia, is a confirmed tea-total, meat eater with a preference for lamb kebabs and etli ekmek (meat and bread). We discovered though, on two occasions, that he does really enjoy fish; it is just that it is not available in Cappadocia (unless you are staying at a swanky hotel). Like some other people we know, he also has a second stomach, specifically for dessert ! When we do our next trip to Eastern Turkey, which we are already contemplating, it would be enhanced by Gökhan’s company.

Antalya is a large modern city with a population over 2million but with an ancient heart going back to 200BC. It is now a major centre for Turkish tourism with beaches, harbours, hotels, restaurants and a golf course which hosts the Turkish Open.

It is a world away from Konya, our first stop – two opposite ends of current day Turkey in terms of politics, religion, geography and economy. A tour guide told us of a tour she had led during the pandemic when she was unable to work with international guests. The guests were from Konya and Antalya, with the two groups not wishing to eat together and the former requesting stops for prayer time at a mosque and the latter asking to visit bars.

We stayed in a small boutique hotel inside the old town and very close to Hadrian’s Gate, which was built to honour the emperor’s visit in 130 AD. The Antalya archeology museum is one of the largest museums in the country. The museum has begun retrieving archeological pieces which have found their way to other countries. One of the items being sought is the Nereid Monument from Xanthos, now housed in the British Museum.

Aspendos is an ancient city situated 46km east of Antalya that we visited on our drive from Cappadocia to Antalya. It is famous because its two storey amphitheatre is virtually intact with minimal modern restoration. This is due to the extensive repairs made in the early 13th century by a Seljuk Sultan. The amphitheatre hosts an annual ballet and opera festival, recently resumed post pandemic.

Termessus is a Psidian city 17km north-west of Antalya in an area that is now a National Park. It was founded on a natural mountain platform. From the car park at 880m we climbed to 1,050m to find the amphitheatre, a spectacular view and only a few other visitors. It is no surprise that Alexander the Great was unable to take the city, despite besieging it. He likened the city to an eagles nest.

Hot air balloons were first flown in Cappadocia in the 1980s for advertising purposes. However the commercial opportunities were quickly identified and tourist flights started in 1991. There are strict controls over balloon numbers, pilot training and in-flight protocols. About 100 balloons fly each day carrying up to 24 passengers with departure just before sunrise due to the thermals. Flying is weather dependent, with around 200 days a year being suitable. Prior to the pandemic increasing demand, with fixed supply, created a black market, however the reduced tourist demand (particularly from China) has eliminated the market.

Our pilot had over 20 years experience and is a registered instructor, passing on some of his knowledge to us and allowing Tim a brief time in control of the gas cylinder.