Kasbahs

Skoura is in the middle of the “Route of 1,000 Kasbahs”. Kasbahs are fortified citadels built for defense and protection, typically with no external windows, but slot holes to fire on approahing enemies. They are generally built from compacted mud and straw with walls upto one metre thick. The earliest kasbah we saw was built in the 11th century.

A typical design addition is a three step feature on the top of the tower which is often seen on more modern Moroccan buildings as well. It was originally used as a symbol to denote that the owner is wealthy and generous enough to offer travelling strangers upto three nights board and lodgings at no cost – after then, like stale fish, its time to leave.

Kasbahs are not well suited to practical modern living, so many have fallen into disrepair. A modern house, with a kasbar style might be found adjacent to a ruin, both owned by the same family. The government offers protected status provided that the owner can afford the rennovation and maintenance costs; this has been done by some wealthy Moroccan families and a few hotels. The hotel we stayed in was a 19th century kasbah bought and converted by a French designer 20 years ago. The rooms comprised a maze with several internal staircases – very easy to get lost – with walls that were good for keeping the heat out during the days and the warmth in at night, but not conducive to wifi signals !