Valparaiso has been described as a dilapidated, colourful, poetic wonderful mess. From the times of Spanish colonialism and English seamen, including Sir Francis Drake, it was a major stopping off port for ships rounding Cape Horn. During the Califonian gold rush of 1849, mining supplies came through Valparaiso. It lies on the coast, 116km from Santiago, but with a very different climate – the day we visited, Santiago reached 36 C and Valparaiso 22 C, with cloud and a cold wind until lunchtime.
The Chilean navy was founded here with the first Vice Admiral being Lord Cochrane, who had been a captain in the Napoleonic wars, but was convicted of Stock Exchange fraud. Valparaiso is still home to the naval acadamy and was a major influence on Chile winning the Pacific War against Bolivia and Peru in the late 19th century, resulting in Chile incresing its land by 30%.
Following the opening of the Panama canal it declined, but the city built on steep hills remains colourful and artistic with separate districts for each of the immigrant European nations, reflecting their respective architechture. These include British, German, Yugoslavian, French, Swiss and Italian. It remains a significant port and is a large student city with several universities.
Shilli-Fully Travels 