We debated driving ourselves to Cappadocia. However it is 10 hours from Kalkan, either via Konya or via Antalya and we could not hire a suitable car in Kalkan (which serves a local “run-around” demand). While it is possible to fly, it is no quicker as a transfer in Istanbul is needed and we felt we would miss out on some of the experiences of travelling across Turkey. We therefore organised a driver, through our agent, Murat (introduced by our great friend and neighbour İpek). Murat told us that our driver was Gökhan and he speaks a bit of English, although we soon discovered that he speaks very good English; better than our Turkish.
Gökhan was a star of the trip, acting as much more than a (very professional) driver – a guide, porter, Turkish teacher, comedian and expert in local cuisine. He taught us a few new phrases; with our favourite being “Hadi gidelim”, a polite way of saying “let’s go”).
Gökhan, a Central Anatolian from Cappadocia, is a confirmed tea-total, meat eater with a preference for lamb kebabs and etli ekmek (meat and bread). We discovered though, on two occasions, that he does really enjoy fish; it is just that it is not available in Cappadocia (unless you are staying at a swanky hotel). Like some other people we know, he also has a second stomach, specifically for dessert ! When we do our next trip to Eastern Turkey, which we are already contemplating, it would be enhanced by Gökhan’s company.





