Feynan

At the end of our trail we reached Feynan Eco Lodge, built in 2005 with the aim of generating income for local Bedouins, protecting nature and supporting ecology. Everything is locally sourced and all the staff are local; hot water and a very limited electricity supply are solar generated. The bedrooms have a single electric light in the bathroom, all other lighting throughout the lodge being provided by candles. With very limited WiFi and one recharging point in reception, this was two nights to go screen free. It was also alcohol free and vegetarian. During our stay the sun set at 4.45pm and supper was at 6pm with stargazing on the roof terrace at 8pm. It is surprising how quickly your body clock adjusts to the absence of artificial light. The food was delicious and the staff very welcoming and informative, leading walks in the local area. Because of the condition of the 8km track to the lodge, on departure we were taken to a vehicle meeting point by a Bedouin in his “seen better days” pick up truck.

For 6,000 years Feynan was a major source of copper and, according to our guide, it was the most polluted place on the earth during Roman times. We saw evidence of the industry, including copper slag on the ground, and the old town destroyed by an earthquake.

Bedouin families continue the traditional way of life, living under tents with their extended families and looking after their animals – goats, sheep and dogs. There is a local school and a small mosque. It is clear to see the importance of family and religion but also their custom of providing hospitality. Bedouin tea, made on open fires with sugar and cinnamon, is always on offer to any passing traveller.